AK 2010: Coming Around The Bend

I think there is a primal need in many of us to explore, at least in my case, I know there is. A need to see what's around the next bend, and maybe more importantly, embracing not knowing what's around the next bend, because there will always be, a 'next bend'.

Alaska was a place that I embraced from the moment I felt the gravel move under my boot years ago . I just can't seem to get enough of it, the rivers, and the true wilderness and wildlife that call it home. Plans came together for me once again, and another incredible trip to Alaska unfolded during August and early September. It was time to see some bends.

Over the coming months I'll be doing various updates and telling stories from the trip. There are just too many to try and fit into a couple posts, but a few general photos are included here. I had time alone, time with friends, time with Dad, and for the first time, time with my brother, sharing some of the special places I have come to love. I still have yet to get Ash up there, but, I'm working on it, and it's just a matter if time. There were lots of new rivers, lots of rain drops, lots of fish, lots of mystery tugs on the end of the line that will forever remain unknown, lots of bears, lots of knots tied, lots of knots broken, and lots of footsteps and nights under the stars engrained into memory. I floated around countless bends, hiked around them, wondered what was around the next one, and turned and contently walked away from them, as it should be.

It was a very wet year, setting a new record of 31 consecutive days of measurable rain in Anchorage. That cut down the number of starry nights for sure, and this meant high water conditions were the norm, water was colder than normal, salmon runs were off and less predictable, and life in general was soggy. Luckily we live in a time where good gear really can make the weather a non-factor, and this was a year that definitely put it to an ultimate test.

I don't yet know when I'll go back again, but I'll do my best. I know there are a few more bends waiting to be turned.

Stay tuned.

D

Kingdom Trails

After getting back home to VT, we wanted to keep the wheels rollin' and take advantage of nice weather and the world class mountain biking available here. The 'Kingdom Trails', up in the Northeast corner of VT are a very well developed trail network, complete with B&B's right on the trail. Ash and I set out to finish the Fourth of July weekend at the Inn at Mountain View farm to see what the hype was all about.

It ended up being a scorching weekend, but with a nice evening breeze on the mountain tops, and views that went on for miles, we weren't complaining.

As we had heard, the trails were very well marked and maintained. We got in a little over our heads a couple of times with the bruises to show for it, but that's gravity for you.

NRG

NRG - The New River Gorge - is hands down, one of the best playgrounds on Earth. With world class rock climbing, world class paddling, mountain biking, base jumping, great food, great people and a fun town, it's pretty much got it all.

It's where I have recorded more than one 'Perfect Day' -- paddle the Gorge solo early before all the rafts put on, get picked up by Doc at the take-out and go rock climbing all day, paddle the Gorge again in the evening with Doc to get the sweat of the day off, go have a great dinner at the Sedona Grille, camp, repeat. Yep, that's pretty much perfect.

When I first got down to Marion, typical high Spring waters were ripping through the Gorge, so I had to see what old friends were still in Fayetteville. Sure enough, my friend Bryan Kirk, always eager to go paddle and THROW DOWN, was around and ready to go. That's him getting inverted at Surprise. Just typing this, and thinking about the high-water boof at the top of Double-Z, makes me smile. Ah, the sound the hull makes ----- TTHHHHHUUUUMMMPPPBBB. Can't beat it!!!

Before I leave that area, I always finish with a run down the Gorge. By the end of the summer, typical low water conditions had set in, and most of my friends were out of town on the competition circuit. Luckily, it's a paddling town, and we're a friendly lot, and Doc had crossed path with a local paddler, Elizabeth, a fan of Jackson Kayak who was eager to paddle. Always one to meet new paddlers and make new friends, we met up and I headed down the river with her, JBob, Dot and Todd. The New has a bunch of little hidden playspots, and I was happy to introduce them to the 'Splat Room' -- an awesome little boulder/cave that is set up perfect for rock splats, splat wheels, cartwheels to splats, loops to splats, whatever flavor of splat you like really. After a few tries, Dot dialed in her first splat with cheers from us all and celebration ensued.

After I got home, Elizabeth shared the pics (Thanks!), and had this to say -- "Thanks for your help with my flatwater looping.....I love the sounds it makes! "

That's what it's all about right there. Making friends and making smiles.

D

Good 'Ol Times in 'Nawrrs'

The 'Nawrrs', or Narrows, VA, is small town in Southwest, VA on the New River. It's where I spent a few Co-Op semesters during my time at Clemson, where I really started rock climbing hard, where I learned to kayak, and where I met two incredible friends, Ralph and Doc.

Ralph and Doc are pretty much the center of the outdoor lifestyle in their small town, definitely having 'been there, done that' for pretty much anything you can think of, and probably more you can't. They were the first people I called when I found out about my temporary assignment in Marion, and Ash could see the excitement in my eyes as I began packing and telling old stories. I couldn't wait for them to meet her.

They don't spend as much time on the water and rock as they used to, and have become big mountain bikers now. I've never been one who favors wheels, but after a few weeks, and with trails right out my cabin door in Hungry Mother, a mountain biker I became.....or, at least a mountain crasher. I'm still working on that....luckily Doc (a chiropractor, check that, THE chiropractor) was there to straighten me out each time I came up with a mouthful of leaves and dirt.

It was great catching up with them over the months. Ralph met a great biking gal, Lori, and before we headed home, had the pleasure of attending their wedding at their cabin in Narrows. Ash made a furry friend, and afterwards we hiked up 'Ralph's Trail' -- about 2.5 miles of single track that Ralph has single handedly cut up 1500 ft of the mountain behind his house to link it to a larger trail network. I've always called him the human mule, and this just proves it.

Another highlight was finally getting Ash in a whitewater kayak down the river! She loves the flatwater, but isn't much for the white variety. Ralph and I told her how great this section was for beginners -- it's where I learned, deep, warm water, Class II, straight forward big water rapids, perfect for learning with no real consequences of a swim. Big Bubbles, No Troubles!

I put her in our new creeker, the Jackson Kayak Villain S. The same qualities that make it an excellent Class V steep creeker --- stability, speed, tracking ability, comfort, easy to roll, etc, also make it an excellent beginner boat. When you're first learning to paddle a whitewater boat, which aren't really designed to go straight, you always feel like you are spinning out all the time from subtle differences in paddle strokes and weight transfers. After a few of these 'burnouts', Ash had the tracking down and took right to it, nailing the lines and even cracking a few smiles.

If you're ever in Narrows, look up Doc and Ralph, they'll show you some of the incredible outdoor adventures the area has to offer.

Giddy Up Grayson

Mt. Rogers, in Grayson Highlands State Park, about an hour from Marion, was one of my favorite places to spend time during Co-op sessions in college. The highest point in VA, it has a resident herd of wild ponies, and is a favorite section of hikers heading North on the Appalachian Trail. Part of the deal with this new contract assignment was to allow for Ash to come down a couple times a month and telecommute to her job here in VT. So, early on I knew I wanted to take her up there to see the ponies and hike one of the most scenic sections of the AT.

I used love to go up and camp near the summit during ice storms in the Fall to test new gear for the upcoming winter. The summit ridges are exposed and get absolutely hammered in big storms -- aside from Mt. Washington, it's the only place on the East Coast where I've been physically blown off my feet.

Luckily Ash had blue skies and plentiful ponies. We were there just after birthing, and had a few shaky youngsters hanging around, getting used to life in the high country.

Marion Mountain Madness

OK, been a while since my last update since I've been pretty mobile the last 6 months or so, so it's time for a bit of a flashback sequence to catch up.

I took a work assignment for 3 months down in Marion, VA -- right near some old paddling and climbing haunts from college. I found a local cabin available to rent at Hungry Mother State Park, and after the long drive, pulled in over my private bridge over a small creek to what would become home for a while in the Southern Appalachians.

Spring time there means hungry trout though, so it didn't take long to find some nice local water with hungry wild trout eager to take a dry. Small streams cover the topo maps down there, and many, if they've survived mining pollution and warming stream temps, still harbor good populations of wild fish. You're not going to catch a 30" rainbow, but you'll have complete solitude and experience fly fishing that hasn't changed much over the years.

Fight the cabin fever, get out the maps, get the Jeep dirty, and head out. Embrace the rhododendron. It's worth a hike or two.

D

2010 New Haven Race

.....AND THE RACE WAS ON!!!

With consistently high, and a few, REALLY HIGH, water levels all week, hopes were building for a great day of paddling for the 2nd Annual New Haven Race near Bristol, VT. Last year the levels were blown out, limiting the number of contestants who wanted to tackle the main upper section, but we still made it happen.

This year things were shaping up great with an early, warm Spring, but this is VT, and the day before the race, temps ranged from near zero into the twenties, shutting down the snowmelt faucet feeding the river. Levels dropped, but it was still 'runnable', and the race was on! A fresh layer of ice covered the banks and boulders, and it was literally a cool scene.

The Vermont Paddler's Club and UVM 'Catayak' Kayak Club did a great job of organizing the event, and it's great to see paddlers in the region getting together to promote our sport and expand the kayaking community.

The format this year was a down-river time trial, best of 2 runs, with the top 16 then moving on into 4 person 'Boatercross' heats on a shortened course with a mass start. The winner of each Boatercross heat would then move to a final Boatercross shoot-out and title of 'King of the Ledges'.

Paddlers had been training for weeks and it really showed. Around 25 racers went for it in the time trials, and I for one can admit to gasping for air with burning abs at the end of the endurance fest. There were a lot of rocks in play at the low levels, and local knowledge of each of them definitely paid off when it came to maintaining speed. The top time trial went to Bristol, VT local Simone Orlandi with a time of 8:10. I came in second with a time of 8:30, and Hugh Pritchard placed third at 8:33. It was a fun race and great test of 'you vs the river'.

The top 16 of us were then placed into Boatercross heats and the anarchy ensued. That was my first Boatercross style event, and it's a really fun format. Not only are you going for a fast time, but your also factoring in line strategy, pass points, paddle blades smacking your boat - hopefully not your face, getting spun out, etc, etc. Lots of variables to factor in, it's chaotic, and it makes for an exciting event for both spectators and competitors. I carried the lead through about 3/4 of my heat, then lost it at a rapid called Lost Legs when another competitor and I chose different lines. I was planning a pass attempt in an upcoming slide, and then suddenly as three of us entered a small constriction of boulders in a really insignificant spot on the course, I got pushed sideways, broached on rocks, run over, and was out of it. I yelled to my friend, Will P, who slowed to make sure I was OK, to keep going as only the top placer from each heat advanced and it was too late for me. I even had to pull my skirt to free my boat and paddle and walk out of the river, frustrated, but with a smile. It was awesome, and such is the nature of Boatercross. Dan Burke won our heat, and as the Kelty/Sierra Designs rep, also helped provide great prizes for the competitors.

The final Boatercross heat came down to Dan, Scott, Will and Colby, with Scott Gilbert coming through in the end with the least mistakes and fastest lines. Congrats goes out to Scott as the 2010 King of the Ledges. He'd put in a lot of time on the New Haven and it was great to see him take the win, and claim another incredible trophy carving from Ken Packie at the Spotted Dog Wood Factory.

Thanks goes out to Ben Guttridge, Danny, Ryan McCall, Dave Packie, Ken Packie, Chris Weed, and all the volunteers, sponsors, and competitors who made the event possible, safe, and fun. Special thanks goes out here to Curtis Savard (Curtis Savard Photography) and river photographer staple, Patrick Rogers (KayakingPhotos.com) for these great images.

We're all looking forward to next year's event as this venue continues to grow and exemplify the great, and growing, paddling community in VT.

See you on the river.

D

Hidden Gulley Hijinks -2

Part 2:

Enjoying the rarity of sunshine in Hidden Gulley, we enjoyed a nice lunch at the top of the first bowl, knowing it would be last sun we'd have for the day. It's that fact that also makes Hidden one of the earliest climbs to form and last to thaw out in the Spring.

Leaving the first bowl, there's a short vertical section of ice in a tight constriction I call 'The Funnel' (bottom photo, Tom) that leads you into 'The Amphitheater' (2nd photo up, Tom). Once there, you can choose how you want to continue climbing, or exit via the 'Goat Path' on the far right which lets you drop down into a descent of Easy Gulley. There are left, middle and right variations to continue on the climb. The middle is the longest, and leads you up out of the amphitheater (3rd photo up) into another narrow gulley above (top right photo), that eventually tops out in the woods on the summit.

There are some great view up there, trust me (top left photo).

We had counted on a great day on the mountain, but what we didn't count on was the amount of snow in the last part of the middle gulley as it crested into the summit area. Usually, you can find a path that leads to the right, drops down a little, through a small cave, and into the top of Easy Gulley for a few rappels and out you go.

We haven't had that much snow down low this year, but up there we found ourselves swimming uphill in chest deep snow, through tree tops, in fading light. After about an hour of futility, we accepted the fact that we weren't going to find the trail, and rapping the route was the only option. Utilizing the best of the Notches bushes and 'Tom's V-Thread Special' by headlamp, we found ourselves back at the entrance and ready for dinner and imbibitions.

A proper day in the mountains.

Hidden Gulley Hijinks - 1

One of the realities of Vermont in the winter is that water freezes. Can't paddle it, can't cast through it, just the way it is. Luckily, with rivers of the horizontal variety being pretty much useless, rivers of the vertical variety come into their own with that wonderful mix of water and cold.

My friend Tom and I have been climbing VT's ice together for almost a decade now, and one of our favorite climbs is Hidden Gulley in Smuggler's Notch (the steep gap between Stowe and Smuggler's Notch ski resorts). By no means is it a steep, super technical climb, but it is quite possibly the longest climb in the Notch, and it brings you up into an amazing alpine environment, with sections only barely visible from below. The climb itself is a mix of snow and ice, through a tight gulley, into a snow bowl, up through a tiny ice funnel, and into a grand ice amphitheater, with 3 different ice routes staring down at you. The longest of which is the middle, and that was our intended route for the day.

With bluebird conditions and temps in the teens, we took a day for one of the Notch's classics.

After a hike up the closed road, the upper amphitheater of the route enters into partial view (top right photo). After climbing a snow gulley (top left photo, Tom), you get to the small entrance of the bottom gulley pitch (bottom right photo). You enter the snow bowl (bottom left, Tom) after a few bulges of ice, and there's a good belay/rap tree on the right. There's a great view of Stowe behind you (upper, bottom left photo) and the ice routes on the other side of the notch.

...to be continued...

Honeymoon in Belize 2 - Thanksgiving. Reeling In & Wrapping Up

After what turned out to be a great day with a pretty permit, Ash could tell right off that I wanted another day on the water. She's used to the 'fish-highs', and after a brief chat with Kachu we were set for another day on the water, including Ash, on Thanksgiving none the less. Fitting.

The weather all week had been in and out, and if there's one thing that kills you on the flats, it's clouds, then wind. Unfortunately we battled both all day, and getting back to the tarpon flats was out of the question. Good guides always know how to make the most of bad weather days, and we still had a great day going after some tricky bones in the mangroves. Ash got into a few also, making it look easy.

I had heard of some beach-accessible flats all week, and not ready to give it a rest just yet, I headed out right before dinner and found some eager ones. Two days of seeing backing ain't so bad.

Believe it or not, that night we had a traditional Thanksgiving dinner, and enjoyed our last night of what was a great and proper honeymoon. I could get really used to holidays somewhere with warm air and clear water.

Thanks to Steve, Chris, Lori-Ann, Kachu, Marlin and Antonio, and everybody at El Pescador for a great week. Thanks to Jason for all the intel. We made a lot of friends and hope to get back some day.

There's still some tarpon there I need to tangle with.

Happy Holidays, indeed.

D